Titebond Glue

by admin on March 6, 2015

Treble of the bridge

Treble of the bridge

There have, over the last few years, been quite a lot of negative reports made about Titebond glue.

I use their Premium11 for quite a few jobs, and one is in gluing on a block extension to the 8ft bridge for the hook to be carved. Many years ago I carved the bridge from a board, but over the last fifteen years, I have chosen to approach the work differently.

Bass end of the bridge

Bass end of the bridge

Now I produce the bridge complete in profile from a selected beech board, in order to have perfection of long grain. Sound travels along the long grain of wood, but the strength factor is also controlled there as well, and the resistance to splitting from bridge pins is greatly reduced with the long grain. Once the section is finished, with its taper from 12mm in the treble to 19mm, in the bass, the piece is steamed for about 75 minutes in a 3inch copper tube, a steamer made just for that job. The hook that has been carved from the grafted block glued with Titebond, before steaming extends from the end of the copper tube, so it gets the full blast of steam escaping from the tubing. It has never failed and I have taken these photos with a macro lens just to show that there is still not the slightest sign of the glue line joint after years of string tension.

PLEASE do not fear! Titebond glue used for what it does well.

Addendum

Further to my photos of the 8ft bridge on FF7 now in for a good clean, new plectra and general service, another detail.

The hitchpin rail, as you will know, takes all the strain of the stringband. Of course, the jointing of the piece to the soundboard and bentside-tail has to be perfect, but because time is needed to get the go-bar pressure perfect, a glue that will give you that time is needed. Titebond liquid hide, slightly heated, has served me so well over many years for this job. The photos (below) show not the slightest concern from the work required of it!

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